To start us off Tasia made pancakes from scratch which gave Julek an opportunity to learn. He loves pancakes for breakfast but since he never had to even boil water when my mother was alive he is a newbie in the kitchen. They turned out good but the kitchen is lacking in equipment. I will have to buy Julek a new pan.
Off course we got of to a late start. First we walked down Nowy Świat to see if we can get an old Russian pocket watch fixed. The watch is nothing special, Julek got it as a gift at some Soviet era junket. The watchmaker and repair guy said "They don't make them like this any more - jewel bearings. Everthing is quartz movement now". He seemed to be happy to take on the job. It would be fixed by the time we got back from Kraków or - if some gear was brocken it would take a few weeks.
Than Julek showed me this great gourmet grocery store called Krakowski Kredens (the Cracow Pantry). Wonderful Polish food harking back to 18 hundreds Galician traditions. I had to get some smoked meats, marinated mushrooms and a nalewka.
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After we got that stuff home we made our way through the parks and streets to the river bank by the new Świętokrzyski bridge where the Warszwska Syrenka monument is. Hope the girls will tell me when they get tired of all the "See over there, I remember when I..." stories.
We took some pictures and I convinced Julek that we should take a bus to the Łazienki Palace and park .
Even though this is not the best time of the year for parks in Warszawa, Łazienki are still beautiful. The park and complex of buildings was built in the 17th century and bought by the last king of Poland - Stanisław August Poniatowski .
The girls really liked it here. Lots, but not too many, people, free roaming peacocks, giant carp, white swans and friendly red squirrels and lots and lots of Great Tits (Parus major) - all in meticulously maintained Baroque, pastoral setting with Classicist white buildings and statues.
Even though it was a half hour before closing the girls and me did manage to get a quick walk through the Palace on the Water . Some of the staff where complaining about how late it was, old style commie service, and I had to control my urge to explain to them the basics of customer service in a capitalist economic system.
But it all worked out well. We took a self guided, quick tour and than we strolled through the park and up to the statue of Chopin. It is one of my favorite statues in Warszawa. Created by Wacław Szymanowski it captures the romantic spirit and turbulent times of the composer. Tasia has a "special" relationship with Chopin ever since I talked her into writing a report about his life and music for shool.
From the park we went to "embassy row" on Aleje Jerozolimskie. The only embassy that looks like a bunker under siege is the American Embassy. This and all the anti American graffiti makes me sad and angry about where the last 8 years have taken us.
The whole restaurant, Julek wanted to have lunch at, was reserved for the afternoon for some event. The second choice turned out great.
It's a little hole the wall, with a nice old Warszawa decor, called Za Piecem (Behind the Stove) at 58 Mokotowska Street. It's a café, bar and restaurant with 2 larger tables in the front room and maybe 6 tiny tables in the back. It's almost as if somebody decided to serve food in their street level apartment. They were more than happy to put 2 tables together for us in the back room. The front was taken up by some friends and family who were just hanging out with their coffee and kids.
Julek wanted to have móżdżek cielęcy (calves brains on a grilled bun) as an appetizer but they didn't have that today. He did get his ozorki (tongue in grey sauce). The girls just tried not to look at it. The rest of the food was way up their ally. Tasia had some marvelous pierogi with spinach and Rachel was happy with her grilled pork loin medallions. If only they had ketchup.
I made a fool of myself by going off on Julek because he ordered Budweiser. It's not the, piss of St. Varonica parading as beer, Anheuser-Busch Budweiser but the real Budweiser made in the Czech Republic. Beer has been made in the town of Ceske Budejovice since 1265 - that's 200 years before Columbus. Anheuser-Busch is not allowed to use the name Budweiser in the EU since the brewery Budweiser Budvar's claim for protection was recognized.
After that lovely meal we walked the rest of the way home.
Tonight is the big soccer match between Ireland and Poland. Julek will be watching that and we plan to meet up with Michal and go for a walk in Old Town. I want to go to a Jazz concert at the Jazzowania Liberalna restaurant in Old Town square. Slawek Jaskulke 3yo is playing. Tasia and Michal plan to go out clubbing with Ida. Guesses Rachel will be stuck watching TV with Julek.
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Poland lost to Ireland - we have to be careful - there will be a lot of angry Polaks in Warszawa tonight.
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My kids and I took an evening walk to Old Town - again me with the stories of my youth.
The Jazzowania Liberalna on Old Town square was very crowded. People are serious about their Jazz in this town. It was standing room only and there were people just standing on the street by the window listening to the music. From what I could hear Sławek Jaskułke 3yo were awesome. It's a shame I couldn't get in. I did try to make reservations, two weeks ago, by email, but it has been my experience that businesses here don't do emails well. Couldn't even find out when the show started. Guess I should have called.
Old Town square is very pretty at night. At this time of year it is not packed with tourists. There were some people doing fire juggling, a russian playing classical guitar and some guys in traditional costumes trying to get you to take photos with them.
We walked to the old city walls and the Barbakan gate. You always find young couples strolling and smooching on the ramparts. It's romantic and both Michal and me admitted taking girlfriends here.
Beer and pierogi at u Pana Michała was a treat. There are so many good little eating and drinking places in Warszawa. The place was busy with lots of young people hanging out. Downstairs in the cellar they had lots of small tables and some very decent live Blues. It is Saturday night after all.
We ate our delicious pierogi, drank our beer and took of to walk to the Teatr Wielki (opera house) where Tasia and Michał are meeting up with Ida for a night of clubbing.
Rachel and I walked to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and than took a bus home. We watched a stop action animation, Polish/British production of Peter and the Wolf and hung out for a little while longer. It is still very hard to fall asleep on Warszawa time.
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Tasia and Michał got back at 6 am - they had a great time. Nobody takes me clubbing anymore.







